![]() It is intermittently in stock at US retailers in roll film sizes, but now nearly impossible to find in sheets. Meter reading of 30 seconds: expose for a full minuteīeyond one minute, expect some personal experimentation (that’s part of the fun!)Īvailability: As of 2023, it’s becoming much harder to find this film. Meter reading of 16 seconds: expose for 25 seconds Meter reading of 8 seconds: expose for 12 seconds Meter reading of 4 seconds: expose for 5 seconds Here are some basic reciprocity times I keep in my when using this film, you’ll want to make note of this when shooting in dim light: Other Notes: It's worth mentioning that Velvia 50 has a rather extreme reciprocity failure as the exposures get longer than a few seconds which is quite easy given the slow speed of this film. Now on to specific lines of film, starting with positive films: To learn more about my negative scanning methods, read this post. It will often appear too cyan for my taste or have some other color balance oddities and need some extra love with corrections. They tend to require a little more care when scanning to get the colors to match what you remember when you took the photo. This film creates softer, more natural colors and lower contrast than positive films, allowing for a much greater latitude with exposure and dynamic range. Highlights in the scene are usually handled wonderfully and these films can take quite a bit of overexposure. It is meant to be inverted during the scanning or optical printing process to get the correct colors. Negative film looks like an orange mess when viewed on a light table, with only very saturated colors showing up as odd purple and cyan tones. However, when the scene is just right for positive films you get rewarded with fantastic colors. This type of film is also typically easier to scan and work with digitally. ![]() Due to these characteristics, it is very important that the exposure is perfect when using positive film. There is not much room for error, overexposed areas will quickly become completely white and unusable, underexposed areas will be very dark or even black and only recoverable with some very expensive scanning equipment, if it can be done at all. When using positive films, it's important that the scene not be too contrasty, or that it be controlled using graduated neutral density filters. It also produces rich, saturated colors and strong contrast. Positive film creates an image the way you saw it when you snapped the shutter. As you can see, they are quite different. The one on the left is a color positive (also called a transparency or slide) and the one on the right is a color negative (also called print film). In the image above, I have two sheets of 4x5" film sitting on my light table. Then I'll go through the brands and lines of film that I have used. Firstly, there are two basic types of color films I'll go over. ![]()
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